Melt the butter in a saucepan over low heat. Stir in the flour and cook gently for 1 minute. Gradually stir in the milk. Bring to the boil, stirring well all the time to make a smooth sauce. Simmer for 3-5 minutes to thicken. Draw off the heat, season with salt and pepper and stir in the cheese. Separate the egg, set aside the white and beat the yolk into the cheese mixture. Allow mixture to become completely cold.

Using a fork, lightly break up the egg white in a soup plate. Spoon out tablespoonsful of the cheese mixture and with wetted fingers shape in small croquettes you should get about 12. Coat each one in the egg white, then coat in the toasted breadcrumbs. Chill for at least 1 hour to firm the coating.

Melt butter for frying in a frying pan over moderate heat. Fry the croquettes in batches for 6 minutes, turning once, until heated through and brown all over. Serve with lemon wedgesthe lemon juice counteracts the richness of the cheese and sharpens the flavour. Serve on slices of hot toast if liked.

Herb cheese: Turn 8 oz (225g) yoghurt curd cheese into a mixing bowl. Add a seasoning of salt and freshly milled pepper and stir with a fork. Stir in 1 tablespoon chopped spring onion and 1 teaspoon chopped chives or parsley. Serve on hot toast or as a topping for baked jacket potatoes.

Caviar cheese: Turn 8 oz (225g) yoghurt curd cheese into a mixing bowl. Add a seasoning of salt and freshly milled pepper and stir with a fork. Stir in a little onion juice (twist an onion half on a lemon squeezer) to flavour. Add 1-2 tablespoons lumpfish caviar and a squeeze of lemon juice. Stir gently to mix and check seasoning: add extra pepper if necessary, but remember lumpfish caviar is salty. This makes a good dinner party first course when served on hot toast.

Garlic and herb cheese: Turn 8 oz (225g) yoghurt curd cheese into a mixing bowl and stir with a fork. Crush 1 clove garlic to a puree with a little

salt and add to the cheese along with a seasoning of freshly milled pepper no extra salt is necessary. Add 1-2 teaspoons chopped chives or parsley and mix through. Cover with cling film and chill for 1-2 hours to allow flavours to develop.

Smoked salmon cheese: Mince or finely chop 6 oz (175g) smoked salmon and put into a mixing bowl along with 8 oz (225g) yoghurt curd cheese, 2-3 tablespoons double cream and a seasoning of freshly milled pepper. Mix together well. Pile into a dish and garnish with chopped parsley. Serve with granary bread and lemon wedges for squeezing over. This makes a good first course.

Liptauer cheese: In a mixing bowl, cream 2 oz (50g) butter until soft. Add 8 oz (225g) yoghurt curd cheese and mix together. Add 1 teaspoon anchovy paste, 1 teaspoon made English mustard, 2 teaspoons chopped capers, 2 teaspoons chopped chives, 2 level teaspoons paprika and a seasoning of freshly milled pepper. Mix wellthe cheese will be a pretty salmon pink colour. Spoon into a serving dish and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serve with hot toast or French bread.

Home-made soft curd cheese has a wholesome taste and can be used to make delicious toppings and spreads. Fresh farm milk sours naturally, but pasteurized milk does not sour because the milk has been heat treated which destroys the natural souring bacteria. You can sour pasteurized milk the old-fashioned way if you add a starter such as yoghurt.

Put the milk and skimmed milk powder, which increases the quantity of curds, in a saucepan and set over low heat. Wirm the milk, stirring to dissolve milk powder, to 110°F (43°C), or when a drop on the wrist feels hot but not burning, and draw off the heat. Stir in the yoghurt and blend well. Pour into a warmed bowl of about 3 pint (1.7 litres) capacity and leave in a warm place covered with a cloth for 24 hours. When ready the milk will have set into solid curds.

Cut through the curds with a knife to separate the whey from the curds. Line a colander set over a dish with a square of scalded muslin and tip the curds into the colander. Knot the four corners of the muslin and hang the curds to drain for about 24 hours. Refrigerate and use within 3 days.

Spoon yoghurt into a bowl of muesli with added chopped apple, banana or stewed damsons and serve for breakfast.

Mix with grapefruit segments and brown sugar. Or add snipped dried apricots and brown

Isugar and leave to stand for several hours so apricots soften.

Lighten mayonnaise for dressing by mixing half and half with yoghurt.

Use half yoghurt and half lightly whipped double cream to make a delicious topping for strawberries or trifle.

Sweeten with sugar and stir to a creamy con- 1

sistency, then spoon the yoghurt over baked apples or fruit pie.

Stir into chilled soups or swirl over the top of chilled soups as you would cream.

Add a spoonful to the milk used for mixing scones to give them a light texture.

Dilute with milk to a pouring consistency for milk shakes.

Yoghurt dressings are refreshing and especially good with spicy barbecue foods. Combine 1/4 pint (150ml) natural yoghurt with a squeeze of lemon juice, pinch of sugar, seasoning of salt and freshly milled pepper and 1 tablespoon chopped chives.

Home-made yoghurt has the most delicious fresh taste especially if you transfer it to the refrigerator as soon as it has set. The flavour stays sweet, without becoming too sharp and acid. You can make your own yoghurt without any special equipment though a thermometer will ensure the temperature is right.

The yoghurt must be at room temperature so that it does not alter the temperature of the milk. Pour the milk into a saucepan and heat to slightly hotter than lukewarm (a drop on the wrist should feel hot but not burning) or 110°F (43°C) and draw off the heat.

Whisk the yoghurt into the milk and pour the contents of the pan into a warmed serving bowl. Cover with a warmed plate and insulate the bowl with towels placed under, around and over the top. Leave undisturbed in a warm place for 6-8 hours. As soon as the yoghurt has set, transfer the bowl to the refrigerator for at least 12 hours until thick and firm.

Once yoghurt is stirred it takes on a creamy consistency. Stir in any fruit puree such as strawberry sauce, blackcurrant sauce or your own prepared apricot or banana puree to make flavoured yoghurt.

If the yoghurt separates into curds (because the milk was too hot or the yoghurt was left too long) just drain the curds as for yoghurt curd cheese to make a simple cheese.

Trim the chicken livers. Melt 1 oz (25g) of the butter in a saucepan over low heat, add the chicken livers, stock or red wine and herbs. Cover with a pan lid and simmer for 10 minutes to cook the livers. Draw off the heat and pass mixture through a food mill into a mixing bowl or puree mixture in a blender or food processor.

Peel and finely chop the onion. Put into a saucepan and pour over cold water to cover. Bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer, covered, for 10 minutes to soften the onion. Drain, reserving onion and 1/4 pint (150ml) onion stock for the sauce.

Melt the remaining butter in a saucepan over low heat. Stir in the flour and cook gently for 1 minute. Gradually stir in the reserved hot onion stock, then stir in the cold milk. Bring to the boil, stirring well all the time to make a smooth sauce. Simmer gently for 2-3 minutes and season with salt and pepper. The sauce will have a mild onion flavour. Add half the sauce and the reserved onion to the chicken liver puree and mix together well.

Spoon a little filling down the centre of each prepared pancake and roll up carefully. Arrange pancakes in a greased ovenproof dish. Thin remaining sauce with the milk. Check seasoning and pour the sauce over the pancakes. Heat through in an oven heated to 375°F (190°C) or Gas no. 5 for 20-30 minutes until the sauce is bubbling hot.

Melt the butter in a saucepan over low heat. Stir in the flour and cook gently for 1 minute. Gradually stir in 1/z pint (300ml) of the milk. Bring to the boil, stirring well all the time to make a smooth sauce. Simmer for 2-3 minutes to thicken. Draw off the heat. Stir in 3 oz (75g) grated cheese and season with salt and pepper. Stir half the sauce into the spinach puree. Spoon a little spinach filling down the centre of each prepared pancake and roll up carefully. Arrange pancakes in a greased ovenproof dish.

Add the remaining milk to the rest of the sauce and bring to the boil. Check seasoning and pour the sauce over the spinach pancakes. Sprinkle with the remaining grated cheese and heat through in an oven heated to 375°F (190°C) or Gas no. 5 for 20-30 minutes until bubbling hot and brown.

Melt the butter for the filling in a saucepan over low heat. Stir in the flour and cook gently for 1 minute. Gradually stir in the reserved cooking liquid. Bring to the boil, stirring well all the time to make a smooth sauce. Simmer for 2-3 minutes, add a squeeze of lemon juice and season with pepper. Add salt, only if necessary. Draw off the heat. Blend the egg yolk with the cream and stir into the sauce. Stir in the flaked fish and chopped egg and allow mixture to cool.

Spoon a little of the filling down the centre of each pancake and roll up carefully. Arrange pancakes in a greased ovenproof serving dish. Melt the butter in a saucepan over low heat, pour it over the pancakes and sprinkle with the grated cheese. Cover with kitchen foil and heat through in an oven heated to 375°F (190°C) or Gas no. 5 for 20-30 minutes until bubbling hot.

Rub the inside of a medium-sized saucepan with a crushed clove of garlic. Discard the garlic. Add the wine and lemon juice and bring to just below the boiling point, then add the grated cheese, stirring all the time until melted. Blend the cornflour with the gin, add to the pan and stir until fondue thickens and comes just to the boil, then draw off the heat. Add the nutmeg and season with freshly milled pepper. -

Have the French bread cut in cubes. Pour fondue into an earthenware fondue dish and set over a spirit heater to keep it hot. Stir the fondue to prevent the cheese from sticking to the dish. Arm guests with fondue forks for dipping the bread into the fondue.

Variation: Serve with boiled new potatoes for dipping into the fondue, if liked. Any leftover fondue can be spread on toast and grilled to make toasted cheese.

Roll out prepared pastry to a circle and use to line an 8 inch (20cm) quiche tin or flan ring set on a baking tray. Chill while preparing the filling.

Heat the oven to 375°F (190°C) or Gas no. 5. Peel and finely chop the onion. Melt the butter in a saucepan over low heat. Add the onion and fry gently for 5 minutes to soften but not brown. Mix the grated cheese and flour together and sprinkle this over the pastry case. Add the softened onions. Lightly beat the eggs, cream, a seasoning of salt and pepper and a little grated nutmeg in a mixing bowl. Strain into a jug, then pour over the cheese and onion mixture to fill the pastry case.

Place in the centre of preheated oven and bake for 40 minutes until the filling turns a beautiful brown. Serve warm or cold. This tart is lovely served with tomato and spring onion salad