Allow frozen kipper fillets to thaw until they can be separated. Pull away the silvery skin from the back of each kipper fillet and arrange the fillets in a shallow serving dish. Peel and slice the onion into rings and arrange on top. Add the bay leaves.

Pat the sugar, vinegar and a seasoning of salt and pepper into a mixing bowl. Stir to dissolve the seasonings and then beat in the oil. Pour the marinade over the kipper fillets. Leave kippers to marinate for 6-8 hours or overnight in a cool place. Serve with thinly sliced brown bread and butter. Any leftovers make excellent brown bread sandwiches with lettuce.

Cut herrings in bite-sized pieces and place in a mixing bowl. Peel and finely chop the onion. Dice the beetroot and potato. Add the vegetables to the bowl along with the gherkin. Quarter, core and dice the apples and add to the bowl.

Blend the soured cream with the mayonnaise and fold into the salad. Toss together the salad will take on a pink colour from the beetroot and season with salt and pepper. Chill until ready to serve. Cut the eggs in quarters and use to garnish the salad. Serve with rye bread and butter.

Variation: Pickled herrings arc sold in jars. They come ready-cut – in pieces. Drain them from the liquid and use instead of your home-made ones.

Clean the herrings and remove the heads and tails. Place on a work surface and spread them out flat, skin side up. Press along the back to loosen the bone, then turn each herring over and gently pull away the bone.

Season the flesh side with salt and pepper. Roll up the herrings skin side out and pack tightly in a baking dish so herrings remain closed. Put the vinegar, water, bay leaf, peppercorns and sugar in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Pour the liquid over the herrings. Cover with a lid or foil and cook in an oven heated to 350°F (180°C) or Gas no. 4 for 40 minutes. Leave herrings to cool overnight in the cooking liquid to absorb flavour. Lift from the liquid for serving the herrings will be firm and easy to handle.

Clean the herrings and remove the heads and tails. Place on a work surface and spread them out flat, skin side up. Press along the back to loosen the bone, then turn each herring over and gently pull away the bone. Cut each fish in half down the centre to make 2 fillets. In an earthenware or china dish, arrange fillets in layers, sprinkling each layer with salt to cover and finishing with a sprinkling of salt. Cover and leave herrings in a cool place for at least 24 hours.

Remove herring fillets from the salt and carefully peel away the silvery skins. Soak in cold water for 1 hour, changing the water once or twice, then drain. Meanwhile, peel and finely chop the onion and put into a saucepan along with the vinegar, water, sugar and spices. Bring to the boil and draw off the heat. Leave until completely cool.

Thoroughly drain the soaked herring fillets and place in an earthenware or china dish. Pour over the pickling liquid, cover and leave for at least 48 hours in a cool place. The herrings will keep in the refrigerator for several weeks.

Lift out the number of fillets required for serving and cut in thin strips. Arrange in a serving dish and spoon over a little of the pickling liquid. Garnish with chopped raw onion and quartered hard-boiled eggs. Serve with rye bread and butter.

Clean the mackerel and remove the heads. Place in an ovenproof dish. Cut the tail fins off, if necessary, so the fish fit into the dish. Peel and thinly slice the onion. Arrange on top of the fish along with the lemon slices, peppercorns and bay leaves. Mix together the vinegar and water and pour it over the fish to cover. Add more vinegar and water in equal parts to cover the fish, if necessary. Cover the dish with kitchen foil and cook in an oven heated to 350°F (180°C) or Gas no. 4 for 45 minutes. Allow mackerel to cool in the liquid, preferably overnight.

Combine the mustard, vinegar, sugar, if using it, water and a seasoning of salt and pepper in a bowl. Beat in the oil until the dressing is well blended.

Transfer the fish to a work surface and carefully remove the skin, then lift the fish from the bones. Arrange the crisp lettuce on a serving plate and place the fish on top. Hand the dressing separately. Serve with thinly sliced brown bread and butter.

Drain the prawns thoroughly, otherwise the juices will dilute the dressing. Combine the prawns, mayonnaise and parsley in a mixing bowl and add a squeeze of lemon juice to sharpen the flavour. Chill for at least 1 hour so flavours blend.

Place crisp lettuce leaves in a shallow serving dish and spoon the prawn mixture on top. Cut the eggs in quarters and arrange them around the prawn mixture. Serve with a tossed green salad and plenty of wholemeal bread and butter.

Variation Crabmeat in mayonnaise: For a luxurious cold-table dish, use 1 lb (450g) crabmeat in place of the prawns.

Trim the smoked salmon and discard any tiny pieces of skin and bone. Reserve 1 or 2 nice pieces for garnish and finely chop or mince the remainder.

Melt the 11/2 oz (40g) butter in a saucepan over low heat. Stir in the flour and cook gently for 1 minute. Gradually stir in the milk. Bring to the boil, stirring well all the time to make a smooth sauce. Simmer for 2-3 minutes to thicken and turn on to a plate. Cover with a circle of wetted greaseproof paper and leave until completely cool.

Cream the unsalted butter in a medium-sized mixing bowl until soft. Beat in the smoked salmon, then beat in the white sauce and the lemon juice. Season with plenty of pepper and add salt only if necessary. Whip the cream until soft peaks form and fold into the mixture. Spoon into a serving dish and spread level. Decorate with the reserved smoked salmon slices and spoon over sufficient liquid lemon aspic jelly to make a thin covering. Chill for several hours or overnight. Serve as a first course with hot toast or as a main dish with a green salad. The smoked salmon mousse is rich so portions should be small.

Variations Fresh salmon mousse: Use 1 lb (450g) fresh salmon that has been cooked and cooled. Flake the flesh, discarding the skin and bones. Decorate this delicious mousse with sliced lemon.

Kipper mousse: Separate 1 lb (450g) kipper fillets and pull away the silvery skin. Place in a shallow dish, pour over the juice of 2 lemons and marinate for 1 hour. Flake the flesh, discarding the bones, and add to the unsalted butter along with a little of the marinade in place of the juice of 1 lemon. For best results puree this mixture in a blender or food processor. Decorate the mousse with sliced lemon.

Drain the prawns thoroughly, otherwise the juices will dilute the dressing. Combine the mayonnaise, tomato ketchup, cream and Worcestershire sauce in a mixing bowl and add a squeeze of lemon juice to sharpen the flavour. Chill for at least 1 hour so flavours combine.

Put the lemon juice and water for the tomato aspic into a teacup, sprinkle in the gelatine and leave to soak for 5 minutes. Bring the tomato juice to the boil in a saucepan and draw off the heat. Add the soaked gelatine to the hot tomato juice and stir until dissolved. The heat of the pan will be sufficient. Add the sugar and season with salt and pepper. Pour into a wetted 11/2 pint (900ml) ring mould and chill until set firm.

Unmould tomato aspic on to a serving plate or into a serving bowl (contains the shape best). Fill the centre with the prawn mixture and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serve with hot herb bread.

Variation: Instead of prawns, quartered hard-boiled eggs are nice in the dressing.

Determine the amount of water required for cooking the fish by placing the fish in a large pan and pouring over cold water to completely cover, then remove the fish. Salt the water and add the vinegar. Bring to the boil, then carefully lower in the salmon and return to a full rolling boil and boil for exactly 2 minutes.

Draw off the heat and cover with a tight-fitting lid. Set in a cool place and leave undisturbed until cold about 12 hours. The fish will continue to cook in the liquid. (This method works for any size even whole salmon.)

Transfer the cold salmon to a work surface and remove the skin the flesh will be moist and beautifully pink. Place the salmon on a serving platter and surround the fish with crisp lettuce. Cut the eggs in half and top with spoonfuls of mayonnaise and a little lumpfish caviar, if liked. Arrange eggs on the lettuce. Serve with extra mayonnaise or green mayonnaise passed separately.

Any leftover salmon is delicious in salads. Try using it in Nicoise salad in place of tuna fish. Or use salmon to make potted salmon for a summer picnic.

Heat half the butter and the oil in a large frying pan over moderate heat and when hot and foaming, add the fish one at a time. Fry for about 6-8 minutes until browned, turning once. Transfer to a hot serving platter and keep hot.

Pour away the hot butter and quickly wipe out the frying pan with absorbent paper. Melt the remaining butter in the hot pan, add the lemon juice and chopped parsley. When hot and foaming, pour the butter over the fish and serve.

Variation Trout with almonds: Fry 1-2 oz (25-50g) flaked almonds in the remaining 2 oz (50g) butter until golden, then add the lemon juice. Omit the parsley.