Smoked salmon is always served cut in very thin slices. It can be bought as a whole side, a pre-sliced side, in packs of slices, or it can be sliced to order. Allow 2 oz (50g) per serving and arrange slices spread out on the plate. If slicing a whole side, use a sharp knife, and cut at a slant, starting about 3 inches (7.5cm) from the tail. Keep surface of uncut smoked salmon lightly oiled so it does not dry out.

Smoked trout is a whole smoked fish. Cut off head and tail, lift away the skin and serve smoked trout on the bone. It’s particularly nice served with soured cream horseradish sauce.

Smoked cod’s roe is delicious just as it is. Simply cut the smoked roe in slices about 1/4 inch (5mm) thick. Arrange 2-3 slices per person on lettuce leaves and sprinkle with a very little finely chopped onion.

Smoked buckling is a type of smoked herring, gutted but not opened out. It has already been cooked when smoked so only needs the skin removed and flesh lifted off the bones before serving. Smoked buckling is large so one should be enough to serve 4.

Smoked eel is rich and satisfying. Lift away skin and cut smoked eel in 3-4 inch (7.5-10cm) lengths, then lift the flesh off the hone and arrange on crisp lettuce.

Smoked mackerel are sold whole or in fillets. Excellent vacuum- packed ones come from Cornwall; these can he plain or coated with black peppercorns €” the latter arc my favourite. Smoked mackerel are large so half a fish is adequate for one serving. Plain smoked mackerel are very good served with soured cream horseradish sauce.

The traditional cocotte dishes for this recipe are small
and hold 1 egg perfectly. Generously grease four cocotte dishes or individual ramekin dishes with butter. Warm the dishes in the oven, then carefully break 1 egg into each dish and season with salt and pepper. Place the dishes in a roasting tin and pour boiling water into the tin to come half-way up the sides of the dishes.

Bake in an oven heated to 350°F (180°C) or Gas no. 4 for about 6 minutes, until the whites are just set. Remove from the oven and spoon a little cream over each egg, then bake for a further 2 minutes. The egg whites should be set but the yolks still runny. Remember that the eggs will continue to cook in the hot dishes after they have been removed from the oven.

Variations: A spoonful of lightly cooked mushrooms, chopped fried bacon, chopped red and green pepper softened in butter, or fresh tomatoes (peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped) can be added to each dish before cracking in the egg. Or, sprinkle the tops with chopped fresh parsley, chives or tarragon after adding the cream; a little grated cheese or lumpfish caviar is also nice.

Crack 2 eggs into each ramekin dish if you wish to serve this as a light lunch or supper dish.

In a mixing bowl, mash the Roquefort and cream cheese together with a fork. Beat in the single cream to make a smooth mixture and season with freshly milled pepper. Chill until required.

Peel the pears and place in a bowl of cold water with lemon juice added to retain the colour. Combine all the ingredients for the dressing except chopped parsley. Halve the pears and scoop out the core with a teaspoon to make a hollow for the cheese mixture. Turn the pears in the prepared dressing and arrange them cut side up on crisp lettuce €” allow two pear halves per person on individual plates. Spoon the Roquefort cream into the cavity of each pear half. Add chopped parsley to the dressing and spoon dressing over the filled pears. The pears for this recipe must be fully ripe €” juicy Cornice or Williams pears are the best. The flavour of fresh pear and sharp Roquefort cream is delicious.

Grilled grapefruit: Cut a sliver off the top and bottom of 3 grapefruits so they stand upright. Then cut in half crossways. Using a grapefruit knife, cut around the segments in each half to loosen. Melt 1 oz (25g) butter and using a pastry brush, dab melted butter over the surface of each grapefruit half, then sprinkle generously with demerara sugar. Set grapefruit halves under a hot grill about 2 inches (5cm) from the heat. Grill for about 5 minutes until sugar has melted and is bubbling. Set in individual serving glasses.

Baked grapefruit: Prepare 3 grapefruits as directed above. Then arrange grapefruit halves in a baking tin. Spoon 1 teaspoon sherry on to each grapefruit half, sprinkle with demerara sugar then dot the surfaces with 1 oz.(25g) butter cut in flakes. Bike in an oven heated to 400°F (200°C) or Gas no. 6 for 15 minutes. Set in individual serving glasses and spoon over juices from the tin.

Florida cocktail: Cut a slice off the top and bottom through to the flesh of 3 grapefruits. For best colour contrast include 1 pink grapefruit, if possible. Stand each grapefruit upright and using a sharp knife, cut downwards and around to remove white pith and peel. Then hold prepared fruits over a mixing howl to catch juices, cut in between each segment to loosen and turn them into the bowl. Discard pips. Prepare 2 oranges the same way. Add 2 oz (50g) castor sugar. Stir fruits and refrigerate for at least 1 hour so sugar and juices form a syrup. This mixture looks best in a clear glass bowl or spoon it into individual serving glasses with sugared rims.

Grapefruit with creme de menthe: Prepare 4 grapefruits as above, turning segments into a bowl. Add 2 oz (50g) castor sugar and chill for several hours. Then stir in 2 tablespoons creme de menthe and grapefruit will take the pretty green colour. Chilling the grapefruit emphasizes the cool taste of the liqueur. Serve in individual serving glasses, with sugared rims.

Combine the mustard, lemon juice and a seasoning of salt and pepper in a mixing bowl. Beat in the oil and blend well.

Slice the top and bottom off each orange. Using a sharp knife, cut downwards and around the sides to remove the peel and white pith. Hold prepared fruits over the mixing bowl to catch juices, cut into segments and turn them into the dressing.

Halve and stone the avocados. Place each half, cut side down, on a work surface and run a knife point along the centre back cutting the skin only. Peel back sections of skin and remove to reveal the green flesh, then cut crossways in slices. Arrange a fan of avocado slices on six individual serving plates. Spoon over dressing and arrange orange segments in a fan shape alongside the avocados €” this looks very pretty. Grate over a little pepper.

Variation: Halve and stone the avocados. Pile orange segments into the hollow of each one and spoon over dressing. Add a grating of freshly milled pepper.

Halve and stone the avocados. Place each half, cut side down, on a work surface and run a knife point along the centre back, cutting the skin only. Peel back sections of skin and remove to reveal the green flesh, then cut crossways in 1/4 inch (5mm) thick slices. Put the slices into a mixing bowl and immediately spoon over the oil and vinegar dressing.

Peel, quarter and core the apples. Cut the apples crossways in 1/4 inch (5mm) thick slices. Add the apple slices and chopped walnuts to the howl and toss to coat in the dressing. Spoon on to six serving plates and serve.

Variation: Scoop avocado flesh from each shell. Chop flesh and mix with salad ingredients. Spoon salad into the avocado shells and serve.

Scald the tomatoes and peel away the skins. Slice tomatoes and arrange a few slices on each of six serving plates. Slice the mozzarella cheese thinly and arrange on each of the plates alongside the tomatoes.

Halve and stone the avocados. Place each half, cut side down, on a work surface and run a knife point along the centre back, cutting the skin only. Peel hack sections of skin and remove to reveal the green flesh, then cut crossways in slices. Arrange avocado slices alongside cheese and immediately spoon over the dressing. Sprinkle with oregano and grate over a little pepper.

This salad, with its neat rows of contrasting colours, also looks lovely arranged on a single large plate for a buffet. Mozzarella is a bland cheese and one of the few cheeses that goes well with an oil and vinegar dressing.

Cut the melon lengthways and scoop out the seeds, then slice each half in 2 or 3 wedges. Using a sharp knife, cut between the juicy melon flesh and rind but leave in place, then cut the flesh crossways in slices.

Combine the sugar and ginger in a serving bowl or, better still, put sugar and ginger into a sugar sifter. Ginger sugar is a good idea €” it makes the ginger less potent and you can afford to be more generous with it. Pass the ginger sugar and lemon wedges separately for sprinkling on the melon and eat the melon with a fruit knife and fork.

Cut the smoked haddock into pieces and put into a saucepan along with the onion, parsley stalks, bay leaf and water. Bring to the boil, cover with a lid and cook gently for 10 minutes, or until haddock is tender. Transfer fish to a plate and when cool enough to handle, flake the flesh discarding skin and bones. Strain’ pint (300ml) cooking liquid into a measuring jug and pour into the rinsed pan. Sprinkle in the gelatine and leave to soak for 5 minutes.

Replace pan over low heat and stir until the gelatine has dissolved. Do not allow to boil. Pour the fish liquid into a medium-sized bowl and allow to cool. When mixture begins to thicken and shows signs of setting, stir in the flaked haddock, lemon juice and a seasoning of freshly milled pepper. Add salt only if necessary.

Whip the cream until soft peaks form and fold into the mixture. Spoon into a serving dish and spread level. Decorate the top with slices of hard-boiled egg and spoon over sufficient lemon aspic jelly to make a thin covering. Chill for 2-3 hours or overnight. Remove smoked haddock mousse from refrigerator at least 30 minutes before serving. Serve with thinly sliced brown bread and butter.

Boil the eggs for 8 minutes from cold. Drain and plunge into cold water to arrest cooking. Shell and submerge eggs in a howl of water until cold. Peel the cucumber, cut in half lengthways and scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon. Dice the cucumber, place in a colander and sprinkle with the coarse salt. Leave to stand for 30 minutes to draw some of the juices. Thoroughly rinse and press dry in absorbent paper to remove excess moisture.

Pour the chicken stock into a saucepan, sprinkle in the gelatine and leave to soak for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, combine mayonnaise, curry powder and lemon juice in a mixing bowl. Coarsely chop the eggs and stir into the mayonnaise mixture. Add the diced cucumber. Stir the stock and gelatine over low heat until the gelatine has dissolved (do not boil), then slowly stir into the egg mixture and blend well. Season with salt and pepper. When mixture begins to thicken and shows signs of setting, whip the cream until soft peaks form and fold into the mixture. Pour into a wetted 1′/2 pint (900ml) ring mould and spread level. Chill for at least 3 hours. Unmould on to a serving plate. Serve with thinly sliced brown bread and butter.