Attitudes to home-made chutneys and pickles have changed. It’s not a case of using up a glut of vegetables or fruit any more. Smaller batches of tastier, more unusual mixtures are popular now.
The first thing to get sorted out are the jars and covers. Vinegar is the preservative in chutneys and if jars are not sealed airtight it will evaporate and chutney will shrink and dry out. Cellophane covers will not do. You can use jam jars if you tie squares of preserving skin (Porosan) on top one sheet will cut into as many squares as you are likely to need.
The old-fashioned way is to use paraffin wax (available at chemists’). When paraffin wax is warmed in a saucepan it melts and becomes clear. On cooling it becomes brittle and white like candle wax. To use it you must first tie a greaseproof paper cover over each jar of chutney, then dip a square of double thickness muslin into melted paraffin wax and tie it over the top. Or attractive wide-necked jars with tight-fitting corks can be used as long as you boil the corks and put a layer of greaseproof paper between the contents of the jar and the cork expensive but nice if chutney is given as a gift.
For pickles the presence of excess water in vegetables or fruit weakens flavour, dilutes vinegar concentration and therefore the keeping qualities. To get rid of excess water, vegetables can be either sprinkled with salt or soaked in salt solution. For dry salt, prepared vegetables are put in a deep bowl or colander with salt sprinkled between the layers allow 1 oz (25g) coarse cooking salt per 1 lb (450g) vegetables. Cover and leave for 24 hours. Then rinse in fresh cold water and drain thoroughly. For a salt solution (brine) dissolve 8 oz (225g) coarse cooking salt in 4 pints (2.4 litres) cold water in a deep bowl. Add prepared vegetables and keep them submerged by covering with a plate. Leave for 24 hours, then rinse in fresh cold water and drain thoroughly.
Spices make an important contribution to the flavour of a chutney. Those not to be left in the chutney can be tied in muslin with a long string tied to the pan handle to make removing bag easy. A 3 inch (7.5cm) wide bandage is good to use for making small bags.
Vinegar and sugar are two of the main ingredients in chutney and the types used vary with the recipe. Malt vinegar used with brown sugar makes a rich, dark mixture, but in some recipes distilled white vinegar and granulated sugar are used to keep the colours bright. On the other hand, cider vinegar gives chutney added flavour. Remember to use a stainless steel or aluminium pan (not copper or brass) when cooking with vinegar. Metal lids must have a plastic lining if used. If a sieve is used it must be nylon all these are important because the reaction of acid to metal alters flavours.
Onion is a regular ingredient in chutney recipes and because vinegar has a hardening effect on raw onion, I find results are better if the chopped onion is simmered for 5 minutes, then drained and added to the ingredients.
Chutneys are cooked slowly for a long time in order to reduce the mixture right down to a pulp and drive off excess water. It is easy to tell when the mixture is ready: a wooden spoon drawn across the mixture should leave a trail.
Bottle chutneys when hot and cover immediately. You’ll find most chutneys improve with a short storage period before serving.
Spiced vinegar: Spiced vinegar adds flavour to straightforward pickled vegetables like onions and it perks up chutney recipes too. You can buy it or make your own. For the best flavour soak whole spices tied in muslin in vinegar for at least 1 month. Shake the bottle occasionally.
For a quicker method, add 1 oz (25g) pickling spice to 2 pints (1.1 litres) vinegar. Put the vinegar in a mixing bowl, cover with a plate, and set over a saucepan of cold water. Slowly bring the water to the boil and draw off the heat. Leave to stand for at least 3 hours to infuse the vinegar and spices. Then strain.
Herb vinegar: A herb vinegar is easy to make. Push a few sprigs of fresh herbs into a bottle of wine vinegar and store for at least 1 week before using, though the flavour will improve with longer keeping. I just top up with more vinegar as it is used the herb continues to add flavour to the vinegar for months.